Cars under 5000

used cars for sale under 5000

Find new and used used cars for sale under 5000 at our automotive classifieds and Cars for Sale website RobbiesCarLot.com

Q: Where is a good used car dealership is austin, TX?
I need to buy a sedan car for under $5000 that I will pay for in cash. I have been looking under craigslist but not that many car have been for sale on there. I want to go to a used car dealership that it fair priced. I live in Austin, TX. thanks all!

A: You know most car lots with used cars are untrust worthy and cars are in bad condition. Try major car lots for their trade-ins they usually won’t sell a car if it won’t last 10 years and offer some kind of warrenty and there repairs are usually gauranteed. For five thousand you should be able to walk away with a good car and you would deal with the best professionals and know who your buying from. So maybe try contacting them and see if they have used trade-ins you could purchase.

Q: Where do I stand having sold a used car that has gone wrong?
Hi guys. I was just wondering if someone could give me some advice.

Basically, I am a recently established motor dealer and sold a 2001 car for £5000 and unfortunately after 3 weeks the owner called me to say there was a fault with the gearbox.

All of the cars I put a good quality aftermarket warranty on and this particular one covered a value upto £2000 including labour. I advised him to go to his local garage (having spoken to the warranty company) who would fix the fault and claim on the warranty. He then said he couldnt find a garage he trusted – so as the car was not running very well and he lived 3.5 hours away I paid for a transporter to recover the car to me 4 days later (the earliest they could do).

The car was taken to a gearbox specialist who failed to diagnose the fault having had it for 4 days. I then arranged for another garage to have the car. They diagnosed the fault and contacted the warranty company who said that as it was such a large repair, would require their inspectors to come and diagnose the issue.

Basically, the warranty assessor took nearly 3 weeks to come out, having cancelled 3 appointments and after continual chasing, when they eventually turned up confirmed that the fault was what the garage stated. They went away to compile their report, and 3 days on and lots of chasing I decided to complain to the warranty company. The company are represented by a well known tv personality who I wrote to, and he personally got involved the next day, authorising the work and supported me saying they assessors have been useless.

Meanwhile, I received a letter from the owner of the car trying to reject it under the sale of goods act. I spoke to trading standards who told me I had an opportunity to repair the car given he owned the car for 3 weeks and covered over 1000 miles and he wouldnt be able to reject. I wrote back to him stating that he had accepted repair and this was being processed. He insisted then that trading standards were on his side etc.

Meanwhile, we sourced a brand new gearbox for the car as well as several other parts that were not really needed but made sense to replace. Instead of using reconditioned parts (which by law was all that was required), we decided to pay the extra and have new ones put on so that he had a decent guarantee. The car had only covered 35,000 miles by the way and is 8 years old.

Anyway, i have sinced received a 2nd letter demanding a full refund within 7 days or he wants to take legal proceedings.

The issue is, trading standards said a reasonable time period must be tolerated and its just over a month now off the road – not helped by the warranty company’s 3 week time to inspect, but this was out of my hands. Given that the work is around £3000 all in, the last thing I wanted to do was complete the work and invalidate the claim without inspection. I explained this to trading standards and asked how long was acceptable…and to quote they said ‘how long is a piece of string’ but did also say that as it was a major part of the vehicle, a longer period of time must be tolerated, particularly with a warranty company involved.

The gearbox was going to be 5 day delivery but I personally went and collected this so it could be fitted the same day. It then emerged that as it was a new part a new transfer box was needed too….which tomorrow im driving to manchester for in order to get it fitted quickly by the weekend.

Im at my whits end to be truthful and have spent a lot of money and time getting this finalised. I genuinely just want to the guy to have his car back.

I wrote back to him stating the car will be finished by tomorrow and included a lot of facts including a detailed log from the warranty company stating dates etc. of correspondence, emails from the celebrity stating they caused the delay, etc.

Just wondered if someone could offer some advice? ultimately, im an honest guy and have not dodged/dived the issue at all. I reported it from day 1 and even took the work on myself and paid £350 to have the car recovered. I would really like to know where I stand legally.

Many thanks for your advice

A: As the fault was obviously internal you had no way of knowing that it existed even if it was faulty or about to go wrong.
In taking the guarantee the buyer accepted that expensive unknown faults could occur with the vehicle from the time it was driven away.
If it was a preexisting fault that you had hidden in some way then the buyer would have a case – clearly they do not.

It is possible that the gearbox was damaged in the 3 weeks that it was used since you sold it and there is no way either you or they could prove or disprove that.

You seem to have taken all possible measures to get the car sorted and have been let down by the warranty company.

I suggest that you reply to the customers 7 day notice and make the points detailed above and keep a copy of the letter in case of further action. I would also write to the warranty company and ask them what compensation they propose to pay both you and the customer for the postponed appointments and the time taken to deal with what should have been a straightforward matter. Do not accept liability in any way and make the point that any costs you have met were a good will gesture and no more.

The only course of action open to the customer would be to go to a small claims court. I believe if consulted a solicitor would advise them not to do it as they would most likely lose. If they did do it and win then all they would get would be a County Court Judgement which is barely worth the paper it is written on being virtually unenforceable.

Good luck with that and stand your ground.

Q: buying a car without co signer at 18?
Im trying to buy a 2008 Toyota corolla its $15,000 im only 18 i have like $1000 for down payment, and thats it for right now..i talked to one of the sales rep and he said i need to have a co signer or make $1500 a month because i have no credit. i dont make near $1500 a month and my only co signer i could use is my dad but he has bad credit. whats the chances of me gettin the car? should i just try a dealership with cars under like $5000? whats the chances then? thankyou ahead of time

A: In this credit market, you have almost no chance at all of getting this car. And if you did somehow manage to, the insurance bill would probably be close to your car payment.

Go get a used car for about $5000. If you finance it for 2 years, the payments would be around $300, I’m guessing. When it’s paid off, you can drop the insurance to just liability coverage if you want, and save a few more dollars. Drive it until the wheels fall off, or until you get through college, and have a decent job. Then you can consider a new car.

Q: which of these cars is the best deal for the money?
http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/ctd/1531946535.html
1995 Infiniti J30 – $2994 ( Fort Wayne )

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Date: 2009-12-31, 1:20PM EST
Reply to: see below

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Grote Automotive
Asking Price: $ 2,994.00

Contact Grote Automotive at 260-422-5000 for more information!
1995 Infiniti J30
Asking Price: $ 2,994.00 Engine: 3.0L V6 Color: Beige
Stock #: 10723 Transmission: Automatic 4-Speed Interior:
VIN: JNKAY21D8SM211077
Mileage: 220,550 Body Style: Sedan
Trim: Condition: Used

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/1531936888.html
4×4 gmc big truck – $3000 (ft wayne)

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Date: 2009-12-31, 1:14PM EST
Reply to: sale-ma2w6-1531936888@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]

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1990 gmc 4×4 full size pick up 3in lift,new off road starter,o2 sensor, full tune up, tinted windows, windshield visor, clean truck only 3 dents 2 arent very noticable runs strong needs 2 tires thats it im asking 3000 obo or trade for something fast in good shape call 260-452-6977 or text 260-579-3845 can also send pics through texts

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/ctd/1531762882.html
1996 FORD TAURUS WAGON – $2500 (NEW HAVEN)

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Date: 2009-12-31, 11:18AM EST
Reply to: sale-mnrvt-1531762882@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]

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1996 Ford Taurus Wagon. 3.0 V6 (24 Valve), 144k miles. Runs and drives excellent. Power windows, locks, tilt, cruise, keyless entry and remote start! Does aslo have the third row seat (rear facing). Call 260-460-7742.

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/ctd/1531754083.html
1995 CHEVROLET LUMINA – $2495 (NEW HAVEN)

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Date: 2009-12-31, 11:17AM EST
Reply to: sale-ygqfg-1531754083@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]

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1995 Chevrolet Lumian LS sedan…3.1 V6, automatic, 148K miles. Power windows, power locks, tilt, cruise keylesss entry and Cassette. Car runs and drives excellent, would make great first car!! Call 260-460-7742

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/ctd/1531753189.html
1997 Plymouth Breeze $1695 – $1695 (Fort Wayne)

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Date: 2009-12-31, 11:07AM EST
Reply to: sale-rc7ay-1531753189@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]

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97 Breeze

4cyl, Automatic

4 Door

Nice Cheap Car

GAS SAVER

$1695

Bolt Auto Sales
Over 15 Autos Under $2000
260-426-2658

A: None of them sound very good. Keep checking.

Q: How to convince parents to get me the car i want?
Ok, so my dad has been working on cars his whole life. He mostly deals with cosmetic aspects of the car but occasionally deals with some stuff under the hood, so he thinks whatever he says about a car is right. I turn 16 soon and we are starting to look for my first car. He keeps telling me he can get me a used civic for like $3000 to $4000. But I think I am entitled pick out the car as long as I am considering my price range and how reasonable it is. I have been doing research on this for over 4 years and im not about to let it all go to waste. What I really want is a nice used 2000 BMW 3 series convertible. About every other week i come across a nice one for sale for about $5000 with about 100000 miles and no issues. He thinks BMW means rich people. He doesn’t even consider it for 10 seconds, and when i tell him the facts like im in a debate he just ignores me. I mean with a luxury car you get luxury safety. Even though it is a convertible it is a very safe car to drive and for the price it is practically a steal.

So i need someone to help me with ideas to convince them to get me it. i already tried the debate approach and offering to pay half. thanks for the help

A: Your dad wanting to buy you a Honda is a good sign that he hates you.

Those things sound like GIANT FART CANNONS if you try to race or modify them in ANY way. Embarrassing to say the least.

Explain to dad that driving a FART CANNON means a lonely life without women or friends and that the BMW doesn’t have the FART CANNON sound and the ladies LOVE IT…..

Q: Is this car worth buying? (Mitsubishi Eclipse)?
Hi I was thinking about buying a used car and was wondering whether its worth it. I really want to buy a Mitsubishi Eclipse year 2000 and up but I only have a $5000 budget…I know this is very low. But I have looked and found a lot on sale for 5k and under but they have a high mileage. Is it worth getting an eclipse with about a 100,000 miles on it or more?

A: One of the keys to pricing a car is to effectively rate the car as the price will vary widely based on condition and mileage. Mileage is pretty obvious. You should base condition on a Carfax report (which would also help catch any odometer fraud) and your own review. Before you buy your final step should be an inspection by a qualified mechanic – but that’s too expensive to do on every car you look at.

There are a bunch of places to check car prices on the Internet. NADA guides is one – but since they are owned by the car dealers association I never recommend them. KBB is another. Driverside.com is a new site and they have a couple of extras – great data showing price based on mileage; DriverSide Estimate where they search actual listings to find what cars are actually selling for in local markets; and estimates for trade in pricing.

http://www.driverside.com/value-your-car/mitsubishi-eclipse-2000-3130-6499

Also take a look a the DriverSide cost of ownership – service, gas, insurance and even depreciation to see how the price will drop over time. I find that most folks look at the one time sales price – not the ongoing costs which continue long after you buy your car.

Q: Am i dealing with a car scam over craigslist?
I found this really nice 2004 Nissan Altima on craigslist listed in PORTLAND, OREGON, only $3200; so i emailed this dealer about it and said “hello, im really interested in this car, where is it located at?” she then emailed me back saying “Hello there,

I’m writing you regarding my Nissan Altima. The car is still for sale. My asking price for the car is $3200. The car is currently located in Ellwood City, PA. It is a 2004 model loaded with everything. Currently the car has 40,890 miles, the VIN# is 1N4BL11D44C117842 . The car is very well maintained, it has just been completely serviced. The engine runs very good and the automatic transmission shifts perfectly. I’m selling the car because I don’t have time to enjoy it due to my job (I work as a casino dealer on a cruise ship) plus that I have some financial problems and I need money very soon. I have to tell you that I’m currently at work and I left the car in Pennsylvania at the shipping company, it’s already packed and waiting to be shipped anywhere. If you decide to purchase it, you will receive all the documents of the car (owner’s manuals, keys, clear title, bill of sale) in order to register it under your name. Regarding the payment, I will use only eBay Vehicle Purchase Protection program. If you are interested, this is how eBay Vehicle Purchase Protection program works:
1. You send me your full name, complete address (I need for shipping) and your phone number.
2. I open a transaction with eBay Vehicle Purchase Protection.
3. eBay Vehicle Purchase Protection will contact you with an invoice regarding our transaction.
4 You will send the payment to eBay Vehicle Purchase Protection and they will notify me to ship the vehicle to your location.
5. After you will inspect/drive the vehicle and decide to keep it, eBay Vehicle Purchase
Protection will forward me the funds and the deal is done.Basically, eBay Vehicle Purchase Protection will secure the funds until you will receive and inspect the car. You will have 5 days inspection period. If the vehicle is not like described, you will have to ship it back on my expense and they will give you a full refund. This way, you will be able to inspect the vehicle before committing to buy it and I know that you have the money and you aren’t just fooling around. I will wait your reply.” when reading this, you will find out that it’s in ELLWOOD CITY, PA; i live in PORTLAND, OR. I still thought, hmm what a good bargin though. I then googled how much it would cost to ship this car, and the total came out to $1000. Which is something i don’t want to pay for. So i emailed this person back saying “so if i get this car i have to payy 1000 dollars to ship it here, and if i don’t like it, i have to ship it back which is going to be another 1000 dollars, so ill be out 2000 dollars? She emailed me back saying ” don’t think you need to worry about the shipping because eBay quoted me with a great price offer and I decided to include the shipping in the car’s price. The car will arrive in 3 days to your location. Also the returning back of the car is included, I decided to pay for that because I know that this will not be the case, you will love the car.

Please let me know what you decided about my car.
Thank you,
“
I then decided to look online and see how much 2004 nissan altimas are, and it was from about 5000-10,000 depeneding on quality, this car looks GREAT, and there are only 40,000 miles on it. So i don’t see why it would be cheaper, and the fact that this person said they’re including the shipping in the car price, so if to ship it here it cost $1000, then shes actually just selling the car for $2,200
Am i dealing with a scam?

A: Yes, it’s way too obvious.
1) ALL offers to ship cars are 100% fraudulent.
2) Car is priced WAY below market value. If she is really having financial problems, she could sell the vehicle to any dealership for $4,000 and not worry about shipping.

The only problem is that she doesn’t have this car.

Do yourself a favor and never give money to anyone until you have fully inspected and test-driven the car. Otherwise, you are just setting yourself up for being taken advantage of.

Q: Help me make a car purchasing decision (long question)?
In this economic climate I’m not eager to take on a new debt (my only current debt is a student loan), but my 01 Civic is reaching a point that I’ve realized I probably should bite the bullet. My car (black 2001, mid trim model with 64K) has been having transmission issues for the past few years and it’s now apparent my torque converter is going. After researching the likely problem, I’m finding that a lot of 01 or 02 Civics have transmission problems and that replacing the torque converter, or even replacing the whole transmission doesn’t always solve the problem. Plus, she’s looking a little beat up and I would love to have key-less entry and some other basic options. But I don’t know what to get.

I want something that’s a good value, reliable, safe, and has a sunroof. I know that last one isn’t a feature that makes financial sense, but I work freakin hard for my money, live in the sunshine state, and spend enough time in my car that I really think I deserve this. I’ve looked at a lot but have focused on the Honda CRV, Toyota Rav4, and Mitsubishi Outlander. I want a small SUV so that I can sit up higher in traffic (and would only purchase another sedan if it was ridicuously cheap…with they’re not). I like the look of a Highlander or the older model Honda Pilots and I’m not averse to buying used, but I really don’t know what I can do.

As for price, I really need to keep it under $300/month. I’ve got excellent credit and can qualify for a credit union loan as low as 3.1%. However, this is for a new loan at a teaser rate, so depending on my timing and what I buy, it could be as high as 4.5%. I can afford more than $300, but I don’t want to be one of those people who spends so much and I realistically want to keep my monthly payment at $275. Every dollar above that makes me feel like I’m spending too much. I’ve calculated the blue book on my 01 Civic and I know I could make more in a private sale, but I’ve never done that and I’m worried about getting scammed. Also, I’m an extrodinarily busy teacher and don’t think I have the time. In a perfect world for a trade in I could get $6500 for my baby, but with her cosmetic scratches and dings, some engine work needed, plus the fact that she’s been in two accidents (no major damage, but accidents just the same) I am telling myself I will only get $5000.

All of the car matching profiles (CarZen, etc) say that my ideal car is the CRV or the Rav 4. However with the price I want to pay, I can’t afford new versions of those with the moonroof option. And I would have bought used by now but I’m seeing new listed at $25k with used and 35,000 miles being listed at $24,700. I know there is room for negotiation, but I’m also scared of getting something used with the risk for issues later in its life. I mean, I bought a Honda new thinking it would never have issues on me, but the dang thing started shuddering at 45K. If I was to buy used, I wouldn’t even consider it unless it was certified and had some type of warrenty remaining.

So my questions are this:
Should I try to negotiate a new Honda or Toyota at my max price range without the sunroof?
Should I try to buy a cheaper vehicle (Suzuki, Mazda, etc) new b/c they have a cheaper price and a longer warrenty?
Should I buy a used? Obviously I know this would save me more, but the worry factor for me is huge. I’m willing to pay a little more for peace of mind, but I don’t want to be stupid. If I buy used, what realistically would $275 a month + $5000 down get me?

A: I would get off the Honda/Toyota high horse. You see what happened to your current indestructable, holier-than-thou ricewagon.

The Chevy Equinox is as good as any and may fit your requirements at a lower price. Other than that I’d look hard at negotiating. Dealers are hurting I’m sure you know and you should be able to get 2-3k off sticker easy. Look at the papers religiously as well. Most of the time a good sale will beat any negotiating you can do. It’s all in timing.

Q: Is this tax fraud, it has alot of reading, so please give me serious answers!?
This is going to be long, so everyone has an understanding on the situation. I worked for a company for about 3 years as a Administrative Assistant. I started my job at the age of 18 years old, 3 months after I graduated from high school, she hired me. I worked there and had paid my first car off. My car had broke down in GA when I was traveling for my job to check a construction site since one of our foremans was off, I had to go to check the site which was 3 hours away. They paid for the gas. Well, on my way back to Florida where I resided, my car broke down in Alabama. So the laborers came and picked me up and my car. Come to find out, my car had a blown head gasket. They said it would have been hard to replace and cost BUNCHES of money, so they BOUGHT me straight off the lot a $8000 2000 Dogde Durango. The completely paid it off from the car lot. I had signed a contract with them to make monthly payments to her. I could have it taken it out my check each week or once a month. I also had to pay a 10% interest rate. But when she bought it, it went under her company’s name and she signed it as the lien holder(the president of her company). I was the buyer. Well, I found out that I became pregnant. I told her that I was moving back home, plus I knew she wasn’t doing to well in the business because of the economy. We had a plan set up to where she’d buy my gas 2 weeks out of a month since I was driving 33 miles one way to work and ran the office 3 weeks out of a month so SHE could save on gas. So we agreed to that. Well, she started to slack on her end and I was basically working to pay for my gas. I told her I was going to put in my 2 weeks notice soon because I was pregnant and wanted to move back to Indiana to raise my family with my husband. She told me she would give me a raise if I stayed. So I agreed. Then she started to push and push and push my buttons to where she knew I would break and just quit so I couldn’t draw unemployment. Well, I had put about $5000 into this Durango she bought me. For a rebuilt transmission, new tires, new hoses, new hubs, new brake lines, new pulleys, new EVERYTHING. THe only thing that needed to be replaced IF it were to go bad, was the motor. I quit my job because she told me I couldn’t take my truck out of state. I didn’t even read my contract (which I know I should have) but when I got to Indiana WITHOUT my truck, it didnt state anywhere where I couldn’t take it out of state. She forced me to give her back my truck. So I did. But I went to my local DMV to sign a bill of sale stating that I returned my vehicle back to the lien holder, so they couldn’t sue me 3 months down the road saying that “I didn’t make payments so they we’re reposessing my vehicle” I made a paper trrail to cover my behind. But then I found out that their company went belly up 1 month after I quit and left. And also found out that they used MY TRUCK as a deduction or an expemption on their company’s tax refund. They labeled my vehicle as a company vehicle. BUT they were recieveing intrest payments from me. Can they do that? I know they weren’t aloud to take my car, but I didnt know any better. And I didn’t know that they werent suppose to claim my car and get interest money too. So they got money from me and the IRS. Is this right? Should I file a fraud claim? I’m only 21 and I’ve already been screwed over, I just need to know what is the RIGHT thing to do? It’s already sad enough that she took a vehicle away from a at the time 3 month pregnant woman, but to get money for it too, thats what makes me sick. She acted like a friend to me (so i thought).

Thanks for reading this. I need as much help as i can get.
first, i said this was LONG to read…miss BIO girl. Also, I made more than just 3 payments. I paid 2 years monthly payments! NEVER LATE!! always one week early actually. MOST payments were more than the actual amount due.
Also, she deducted it last year in her taxes. So this isnt fraud? I was told it is!
Again, she paid for it IN FULL! I was making payments back. And we had a spreadsheet that stated all that I had paid for and when then last and final payment be if I were to COMPLETE it. But since she wanted to try to MAKE me stay, she threatened on keeping the truck. So when I told her I was definately leaving, she said I had to give back the truck. I already had a job lined up and was willing to make 2 month payments up front, but she said NO.

A: I am sorry that I cannot help you; I don’t know if this is fraud or not. However, I just wanted to say that it’s horrible you put in 3 years for her and even willingly drove out of your way….and she screwed you over. Sorry you had to go through that and I hope things work out in the end!

Q: PLEASE HELP ME !!! ;(( –linear equations (word problems)?
This are my assignments..hope somebody can help me.. PLEASE ) it’s OK if you don’t answer all, 1 item is a big HELP for me.. THANK YOU for those PEOPLE who will HELP ME.. GOD BLESS

**it’s all about solving word problems using linear equations:

1. Rose is two thirds as old as Johnny, in 5yrs the sum of their ages will be 50yrs. find their present ages.

2. In eight years, peter will be three times old as he was eight years ago. how old is peter now?

3. a man who is 42yrs old has a son of 12yrs old. in how many years will the father be twice as old as his son?

4. Mr. Santos, working as a salesman for a firm, gets a salary of 5000 per month plus a commission of 10% on all sales above 2000000 per month. his total gross pay last month was 21000. how much was his total sale last month?

5. Train A leaves a station 1/2 hour ahead of Train B. The trains travel on parallel tracks. Train A travels at 25km/h while train B travels at 25km/h , how many hours will it take Train B to overtake Train A?

6. Mark can finish task alone in 24days while Andrei can do the same task in 18days. If they work together, how long can they finish the task?

7. A variety of candies costing $10.50 per kg is mixed with another variety costing $15 per kg, to make a mixture of 12kg that would cost $12.50 per kg. how many kg of each variety were mixed?

8. Three hundred people attended a band concert. Reserved seat tickets were sold at $100 each while general admission tickets cost $60 each. If the sales totaled $26000, how many tickets of each type were sold?

9. Grace found some coins under her pillows. There were equal numbers of one peso coins and five peso coins. the number of twenty-five centavo coins was twice that of one peso coins. If the total value of the coins was P39 how many of each denomination did she find?

10. When Professor Recalde drives his car to school, the trip takes one hour. When he takes an FX cab, the trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes. The speed of FX cab is 10 kilometers per hour less than Professor Recalde’s speed when driving. Find the distance that he travels to school.

A: I’m going to e mail you a power point of notes on this. It will help you figure out how to convert the word problems. Unless everyone on line is going to do it for you.
hsophiad@yahoo.com send me an e mail if you need them

Q: Separate lanes for motorcycles: how can we lobby for this?
I own a 250cc motorcycle (Kawasaki Ninja) which seats two and gets 70-80 miles per gallon: better than virtually any hybrid car on the road…plus it can go up to 100mph so it can easily do highway driving.
Scooters can get over 100mpg and still travel the 35-40mph needed for most city travel and have seen booming sales recently.
___________________________________________________
So…why don’t people who want to contribute to a better environment just buy a small motorcycle for $3000-$5000 instead of an inferior MPG hybrid for $25-$40K?
The only consistent answer I have heard is “ride one of those things on the road…are you crazy?…I’d get hit by a car weighing 8 times as much and die.”

Which brings me to the point…most people I have talked to LOVE motorcycles minus the above safety issue.
If you make simple dedicated/separated/blocked-off lanes for motorcycles (even fairly narrow ones which barely make roads wider), you can make sure the worst thing a motorcyclist can run into weighs about 500lbs instead of 3500-5000lbs. and likely convince MANY more people to use them for virtually everything beside transporting kids. After all, the scooter market has already BOOMED since fuel prices have shot up even with the safety issues…and continues to as people worry gas prices may shoot up again.

Why are people spending so much money on hybrids that are mileage-wise far inferior to motorcycles when we could have such alternatives?

Is there a place where I could sign a petition to promote separate/safer lanes for motorcycles and/or vehicles under 700lbs.?
When I say “even fairly narrow ones which barely make roads wider” I am also implying such extensions to highways and roads would be relatively cheap to construct vs. the full-width roads needed for cars.
–First off, it’s not the road widths that are a –problem. It’s the intersections.
I am still not completely convinced as, last time I read, injuries coming from other cars switching lanes is nearly as major a cause of accidents as intersections.

I am not arguing or trying to chat…I am just trying to get back to the point of the question IE “how can we lobby this?” If your point is “we can’t”, then my point is I agree to disagree.

–pay for your hobby
I guess paying essentially the cost of a bike lane is really that much of a problem for you…
We pay MANY more times to enlarge roads for cars and manage traffic because of the size of cars than we ever have for motorcycles. On top of this, less accidents would likely mean less tax money needed for trauma centers. Most motorcycle accidents are caused by cars not seeing a motorcycle who is driving well and carefully (source: my MSF course).
If your point is “we can’t”, then my point is I agree to disagree.
Thanks to all who participated.
There’s so much bias in so many answers (and lots of answering things that were anywhere from very sidetracked to the opposite of what I asked) I can’t choose a fairly biased best answer…so I am leaving this one for voters.

Also to note…when I said extra lane I meant separated by a median IE like an HOV lane but also on public streets.
Many motorcyclists (myself included), check our sides and mirrors every 5 seconds or so to see if a car is moving into our lane straight toward us from our blind-spot. In fact, every near-collision I have had so far is a result of someone failing to yield right of way IE cutting into my lane while accelerating from behind me.

Also, I agree the anti-cell-phone bill would make a huge difference.
However, I don’t agree it evenly hurts cars and motorcycles (someone nudging the side of a motorcycle while on a cell phone can instantly KILL a motorcyclist…while only causing costly damage to a car).

A: I don’t think they would ever go for it. Because not only will it cost billions to make interstates and roads to have a single bike lane in every direction. It wouldn’t really make you any much safer. Plus inconsiderate drivers that would try to to probably pass someone in that lane if there was enough room. Second off weather conditions even in heavy rains you got cars and trucks driving all over the shoulders and lines now on the freeway let alone if motorcycles were traveling down it. I understand your point of view on the situation that cars don’t see us but what makes you think that having are own lane down a freeway would make any difference they would still not see us and probably try to merge in that lane anyway. Usually most of them happen at intersections or where there turning out because the motorcycle doesn’t have the same eye appeal as a car. That’s why i would have a very very loud exhaust put on mine so they could actually hear me coming up or around them. plus you have alot of inconsiderate motorcyclist who like to pass cars in non passing zones around turns in which the car hits them.

A: 100,000 miles isn’t much on an eclipse but for $5000 that’s pretty expensive for one of those cars. Go on craigslist.org and choose your city then look on there. You can usually find good deals. I always have. Good luck!

A: If you plan to keep it forever, then save up for a new car.
If you plan on driving it for 1-4 years, then it should be fine and last that long.
It is not a bad idea buying a car with more than 100,000 miles.

It is a bad idea buying a car with over 200,000 miles.

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